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Greetings from Bali,

I just arrived so not much to report yet, except to say it's exceptionally peaceful right now ahead of the Bali new year celebrations.
It's called Nyepi and here it is a big deal, it starts at 6pm tonight, and the rumours are that the internet in Bali will go dead this year. Read it here if you don't believe. Because after a huge party of monsters and ghouls, follows 24 hours of absolute silence, the airport is closed, the airspace is closed, roads are closed, it is the Day of Silence. No fire, no travel, no activity and no entertainment...

Already as I write this, the shops are closed, the road near my hotel is virtually empty, in the distance I can hear someone gently playing a gambalan (think tubular bells), thunder is rumbling and echoing off the distant volcano and every now and then a gecko makes it plaintive cry. It's the calm before the mayhem... Soon will be the night of the Ogoh-ogoh the monsters of Bali will rule and then they will burn. Then silence.

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Ogoh-ogoh the monsters of Bali

Anyway, I will give you a full update next week.

Last week I was telling you about the most densely populated city on earth, I was in Kolkata - or near by, you can read about it here.
Since then, I took the night flight up to KL, had some meetings with the Salt Lamp guys from Pakistan and discovered few things, then a flight to the central Javan City of Yogyakarta.

Lovely Yogyakarta, it's a long time since I visited, and yet it felt like coming home. The city is dominated by a volcano and home to a population of gentle artist people. It's the only place I know you can totally trust the taxi drivers, where everyone has a warm smile and is easy to do business with. The lowrise streets are full of historic buildings and parts of the ancient Javan royal court overlap the town centre. The striking thing about the backstreets of Yogya, or Jogja (as they call it here) is the graffiti - I think Banksy must be a major influence on the student and much of it in English - is english the language of protest and subversion? I seen one I liked that just said "Sorry Mom.. I love graffiti"

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Yogya Streets Graffiti

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Yogya Graffiti

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Street Art

This is a city that dare I say it, breaks the stereotype of a Muslim city. A typical guy we do business with has adopted the Yogya look, think aging hells angel, with vintage tattoo's and shades. The ladies these days are perhaps dressing a bit more pious, but they are loud and bossy and quite fun, not at all subservient to the guys. We deal with several businesses here run and owned by ladies.

The city is also developing rapidly, the first time I came there was no modern shopping centres, and the roads were erm, bumpy.. but the place is developing albeit in an eco-friendly and low-rise way. Go, you will fall in love in Yogya.

Now in Bali, and not many days to get the jobs done.. so as soon as the Day of Silence is over.. I'm running running...
Some girls are in reception freaking out.. it seems that all the ATM's are switiched off.
I'm sending the email now.. before the internet goes down.

Take care..

More news next week.

David

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