July should be nice is Paris as everyone (including chefs) makes their mass exodus out of town. When I first moved to Paris, there were some July 4th celebrations amongst fellow Americans, but those seem to have gone on the wane as no one French is all that interested in celebrating America's independence. Like Thanksgiving, which people often ask me about - "What do the French do for Thanksgiving?" Answer: It's a non-holiday in France.
Yet Americans like to celebrate Bastille Day, which is simply called "The 14th of July" in French. There is military parade in Paris, to highlight the grandeur of the Républic, and it's a national holiday with fireworks in the evening. But there isn't a specific food or ritual associated with that day. Unless someone has been keeping a big secret from me all these years.
Another question I get annually from visitors is, "What's going to be open in Paris in July and August?" And I tell them, "I don't know." Bakeries are required to post a sign letting neighborhood residents know when they'll be taking their annual month-long (more or less) break, and even the outdoor markets become sparse as vendors take off as well. My friends at Paris by Mouth usually publish a list of places that are open. So if your travel plans are taking you to Paris this summer, check them out.
Speaking of taking a break, you know you live in Paris when your housecleaner announces that she's taking her annual eleven week vacation. Me? I'm just trying to figure out how I can get away for perhaps a long weekend…
So I'll vicariously live through her, while she rests on a beach in Tunisia, eating fresh dates and other fruits, and watching the lolling waves...while I try to figure out who's open, so I can get my daily baguette.
▪ David