Marché des Enfants Rouges - 9 Rue de Beauce, 75003
My Paris {part one}
Summer is fast approaching, so I figured this was a good time to share some of my favorite spots in Paris for anyone planning a trip. Keep in mind this list is far from comprehensive. Trying to sum up everything there is to see and do in Paris is an impossible feat. Everyone's taste is different, and the fact that I've yet to make it to the top of the Eiffel Tower is very telling about the lens through which I try to discover Paris.
On my first visit, back in the summer of 2012, I fell in love with seeing American films in Paris. I know it sounds bizarre, but after a day of struggling to understand, and be understood, in a foreign language, it's a treat to sit in a theater and feel like I have the upper hand watching a movie in English with French subtitles. You can find a listing of English-language films here.
I tend to meander when I'm in Paris. No plan, is the best plan. Here's a peek at a few things I like to indulge in when I'm there. I'm hoping to create some space on the blog dedicated to my travels, but that will take a while since I'm juggling a few new projects and moving at the same time. Consider these recommendations an amuse bouche!
Café de la Mairie - 8 Place Saint-Sulpice, 75006
My dear friend who grew up in France, took me to this cafe near Saint Suplice on my first visit. She used to come here when she was working in Paris. It's often my first meal upon arriving. Being the infinite creature of habit, I can't resist ordering the croque monsieur Poilâne provençale.
Jacques Genin - 133, rue de Turenne 75003
Paris is the perfect place to indulge my incessant sweet tooth. No trip would be complete for me without a visit to Jacques Genin. Brace yourself—these caramels are a whopping 110€ per kilo (one kilo is about two pounds). You may have fainted if you already did the math into USD$. The mango passionfruit ones illicit a sultry sigh every time I eat one. These are caramels meant to be savored, and slowly melt on your tongue.
Early morning run at The Louvre.
I cherish my morning runs in Paris. There's something so special about watching a city wake up. In New York, you need to be quite the early bird to experience it. Paris takes its time stirring from a long night's slumber. It's not unusual to go for a run around 7:30am and still have the streets mostly to yourself. Sunday mornings are my favorite time. I'll even share a secret with you—this is the best time to enjoy Notre Dame. The doors are open for parishioners to attend Sunday mass. If you're not interested in the full tour, and just want a peaceful glimpse inside, this is the time to go. Be respectful, though. If you arrive once mass has started, it's considered rude to walk around. Take a seat, and stroll around when the sermon is over.
Nowadays globalism and the internet have made it possible to buy items from around the world with the click of a button. Still, there are items I make a point of bringing back with me, often because they're less expensive in Paris than here in the U.S. (even with the exchange rate). A few things that immediately come to mind are almond and hazelnut flour, parchment paper (I love the Leader Price papier cuisson), salt (Poilane has an excellent value with a kilo sac for 3,60€), and Cristine Ferber's raspberry violette confiture made exclusively for Pierre Herme is quite possibly the best jam I've ever tasted. It was my sole reason for making my own violet syrup recently. As soon as raspberries come into season, I intend to try my hand at making it at home. I also love combing Monoprix and HEMA's housewares sections. If you love Picardie glasses, you can stock up on them there for 0,95€, a mere fraction of the $5 they usually cost here in the U.S.
When traveling, I prefer to stay in apartments, and my decision of which one to book invariably rests with the best kitchen and amount of natural light available. In fact, I tend to eat in more than out when I'm in Paris. I love going to the farmers' market on Boulevard Raspail (Tuesday and Fridays is the regular market, and Sunday's organic market is my favorite). There's also a lovely green grocer on Rue de Grenelle—be prepared for their prices, but you're always guaranteed an excellent product. Warning: don't touch the produce! Tell the grocer what you'd like, and they'll get it for you. For items like melons and figs, they'll even ask if you intend to eat them right away, or wait a couple of days, to ensure they select an appropriately ripe product. As you may have guessed, my Paris revolves mainly around the 6th and 7th arrondissment. It reminds me of Soho, and I feel quite safe walking home at night around there (don't be fooled, parts of Paris can be a bit seedy once night falls). The most important advice I can really share is be sure to see Paris through your own lens. That may sound silly, but it's easy to get caught up in what you think you should see. Keep an open mind, and let yourself be free to wander and discover. Those are often my most pleasant moments.
I stay at the same apartment often enough to know what the owners keep on hand. If I'm staying for a longer period and plan on checking my luggage, I'll pack my chef's knife. Otherwise, I make do with the paring knife in their kitchen. Most rentals have a coffeemaker of some sort, but it can vary widely, from a Nespresso to a French press, to an automatic drip. Ask the owner if you take your morning coffee as seriously as I do, so you can be prepared.
The same way I bring goodies from Paris back home, there is one comfort from the U.S. that is a must when I'm traveling with the kids—peanut butter! It's not a common ingredient in France, and rather expensive if you do find it. Another essential is my Jambox travel speaker. It fits easily in my carry on, and lets me listen to my music properly. On that note, here's a treat I thought would be fun to share. It's a summer playlist of the music pairings I've featured on the blog over the last year. In Jennie's Kitchen Summer Playlist
